Monday, August 30, 2021

Week 20

8/22 Hiker Hut 1973, easy 10 mile hike into town. Decided to zero at a hostel a quarter mile off the trail. The hostel is off the grid, and has standalone shower, kitchen, garden, and portapotty. Lighting is solar powered flashlights. No phone service, but I can get reception and a charge in town.

8/23 Hiker Hut 1973, complete zero day. I ate a pizza in Rangely, and finally got a haircut. Hostel filled up, and I took a nice nap. 

8/24 Spaulding Mountain Lean-to 1991. amazing views from the horn, above treeline. Some slippery climbs but clear weather. Good crowd at the shelter. 

8/25 Hostel of Maine in carrabassett valley 2005. Crocker range. 2000 miles! Italian restaurant nearby. A nice converted B+B that had a dog.

8/26 Little Bigelow Lean-to 2020, amazing views from the last climbs above treeline till Katahdin. I tried to see it in the distance, but it was too hazy in between. Got a hitch to trail after road walking for a mile. 

8/27 Pierce Pond Lean-to 2038, stopped early to be on time for the ferry tomorrow. Packed shelter, as I ran into a large bubble of hikers. Flatter hiking with rooty footing. Stopped at a lake to wade/soak my feet. 

8/28 Bald Mtn Brook Lean-to 2057. Amazing pancake breakfast. Canoe ferry across the Kennebec River. Shower, charge, and resupply from the Stirling Inn in Caratunk. 

8/29 Shaw's Hostel in Monson 2078, fast flat day along a stream. Tenting at the hostel, and I'm going to take my last zero here tomorrow. 


Sunday, August 22, 2021

Week 19

8/16 Rattle River Hostel 1895, Carter Dome, Hut breakfast on the way out in the morning. A very smooth final few miles along Rattle river to US-2. Someone left a sofa chair by the trail, where I chilled and chatted with other hikers. Waterqueen had some amazing trail magic, and took my picture for her van's poster project. The hostel had a mixed group of thru hikers and not. At resupply, the store had its card reader down so I had to put back some of my food to pay cash. Played a board game, then crashed.

8/17 camped at 1908, past the whites the trail is noticeably less maintained, 1900 miles!, half day getting out of the hostel hanging out with people zeroing. Did get to pick up more food from the gas station near the post office where I swapped sleeping bags and sent shorts home. 

8/18 camped just past Mahoosuc Notch 1919, started with climbing Mt. Success and blue blazing to see a plane crash site. Took a little bit of time finding the AT again afterwards in the fog, and found someone else I knew who was also trying to get back on trail. Waist deep bogs on the ridge, NH/Maine border!, my map calls Mahoosuc notch "a deranged jumble of boulders" and it was certainly that. A mile of the most fun, technical, and challenging climbing I've seen so far. The notch took me an hour and 20, compared to 20-30 for a mile before the whites. Hoping to get going early enough to climb Mahoosuc arm before the predicted storms. 

8/19 Camped past the Dunn falls 1937, I had amazing views from Mahoosuc arm and Old Speck. With the distraction of summiting I forgot to check a step with my pole and ended up sinking a leg in bog up to mid-thigh. Took a dip in Old Speck pond to wash off. Met a weekend hiker at Grafton Notch that I had met at carter notch hut. Cloudy traverse of the Baldplates, turning into rain. I set up my tent in the rain and I was warned it would rain all night. I should have called ahead to Andover, as all hostels were full by the time I did call. Shelters were full by 3pm. Hikers really are afraid of the rain.

8/20 The Cabin Hostel 1946, woke up with several slugs all over my tent and belongings. Clear day, after a night of rain. I dried things out partially at the next shelter, and then hiked on out to a trailhead. While riding to the hostel, the hostel's car got a flat so I ended up walking .2 miles to finish the trip. Amazing hostel, full of AT history. 

8/21 Sabbath Day Pond Shelter 1963, 24 hours with my phone turned off from leaving the cabin to the next morning. Amazing moss along the trail. Got some trail magic from a group of guys that took a boat over to the trail from across the pond. Sitting on the beach and soaking my feet was amazing at the end of my day. 

Hundred-Mile Wilderness, Here I come!



Wednesday, August 18, 2021

Week 18

8/11 Liberty Springs 1823, evening hike up

8/12 Guyot shelter 1836, franconia ridge, sunset view from W. Bond mtn, amazing views from above treeline.

8/13 Mizpah hut campsite 1854, breakfast leftovers from zealand, trail magic from stitches (AT '99), leftovers from dinner, amazing weather, hut croomember bleached his hair, 

8/14 Camped near 1866 (below treeline), summited Mt Washington just before an hour of rain, waited it out and then got some amazing views on the north half. Worked for breakfast at lake of the clouds hut.

8/15 camped just below Carter Notch Hut 1880, early windy climb to Madison, then down to pinkham notch, passed a car race going up Mt. Washington, shower, food, electrons, and nap at the pinkham visitor center, got leftover dinner from the hut


Cutting back to weeks ending with the weekend for consistancy. The white mountains were amazing, despite the tourists. Escaping the green tunnel was a special occasion for once or twice a day, and spending a whole day above treeline was a different level. I've started counting down miles until Katahdin, and I can feel the magnetism pulling me harder the closer I get. 

Maine here I come!


Wednesday, August 11, 2021

Week 17

8/4 Stony Brook shelter 1714, Mt. Killington, 1700 miles, stopped in at the town of Killington. Got some warm clothes.

8/5 Thistle Hill shelter 1736, a nice day with some climbs, on the edge farmstand where I tried maple soda.

8/6 Hanover Adventure Tours hostel 1751, wonderful porchside trail magic in the morning, passed Dartmouth college

8/7 Camped before Smart mountain 1770, New Hampshire!, ice cream trail magic, 

8/8 Camped at Greenhouse Restaurant 1789, Mt smart and Mt Cube, 

8/9 stealth camped 1807.8, climbed Mt. Moosilauke the first above tree-line, 1800 miles, very steep slippery descent

8/10 Notch hostel in N. Woodstock 1820, Kinsman Ridge, lonesome lake hut had leftover pancakes

(Rest of the) White Mountains, here I come!


Friday, August 6, 2021

Week 16 pictures, pt 4

Week 16 pictures, pt 3

Hiked up part of the slope

Week 16 pictures pt. 2, All Mud edition

not really mud, but a whole stream going down trail
Nothing like taking off wet shoes at the end of a day

Week 16 pictures pt 1

The Lyme test came back negative!
Here are some pictures from a week ago to celebrate.

tight spot, had to set up with a branch under my pole
Stratton pond


Wednesday, August 4, 2021

Week 16

7/27 Williamstown 1596, Visited family, felt sick later and got a lyme test

7/28 Williamstown 1596, first full zero since Pearisburg, VA.

7/29 Congdon shelter 1610, Vermont crossing, beginning of the Green Mountains, 1600 miles

7/30 Kid Gore shelter 1628, drizzly day and cold night in my summer gear (37°f), full shelter

7/31 Spruce Peak shelter 1651, three quarters mark!, Stratton Mtn., 

8/1 Near-o into Manchester 1654, 

8/2 Little Rock Pond shelter 1674, ski slope trail section on Bromley

8/3 Gov. Clement shelter 1694, rock garden, trail magic, watched an airplane take off, 500 miles to go


After getting into Williamstown, and getting to spend some wonderful time with family, I had a fever and felt sick. I ended up needing to take a zero to just rest in bed, and sleep. I did get a negative test for covid, and a tick-bourne illness test as well. I don't know of any tick bites, but I started taking an antibiotic in case it was Lyme. I delayed posting this to see if I would get results back, but they haven't gotten in yet. I've been feeling much better, and back to my regular hiking pace. I'll give an update next week.


After the much needed zero day, I once again joined a new bubble of hikers, this time heavily supplemented by a number of people hiking the Vermont Long Trail. It was refreshing to see a bunch of entheusiastic new hikers on trail. A group of them were even singing at camp. More and more of the AT hikers are getting jaded and openly complaining about being on the AT. I don't feel that way, but a lot of people already see themselves in the final grind, while there's 500 miles yet to go. I hope they don't burn themselves out. I've said it a few times, so I'll write it here; If I finish the AT and still feel like hiking, I'll just hop on another trail. If I don't want to hike anymore, I'll stop.


Ver-Mud has been a trying at times, though. This summer has been the rainiest Vermont has seen in some years, and the ground has been completely saturated with water. I've hiked every day in wet shoes and socks, stopping to dry my feet at breaks. I start each day trying to hop on rocks, or branches to avoid getting cold water in my shoes. It never lasts long, and I have a higher chance of slipping while on those slippery surfaces. If not muddy, water will simply stream right down the trail as it looks for any outlet it can get. Digging ditches doesn't help, as the water comes right back. Stepping around just widens the mud pools, and its common to see some get 10 feet wide, and wider. The GMC has planks for some of it, but there's only so much they can do.


Despite that, I've been really enjoying Vermont, and the return to higher elevation mountains. The whole section from the shanendoahs in VA until northern MA barely broke 2000 feet of elevation, and kind of felt like filler. It was nice, but hills instead of mountains. Getting into the green mountains here in VT reminded me about what drew me to the trail in the first place. The views, climbs, ponds, and beautiful forests have been amazing, and almost make me forget about the mud. Another change has been that the trail is getting more remote. There are hostels again, less cell service, and fewer town encounters. Most of the towns are smaller and more trail focused (and probably ski focused in winter). It even passed through a designated "wilderness" area for the first time in the north. 

Here's to New Hampshire!


Monday, August 2, 2021

Week 15 Pictures pt. 3

Drying my feet at a cafe, outdoor seating of course
Sunrise from Greylock